Supply and Demand

On a short stopover in Bangkok I’ve decided it’s time to write about my encounters with the Thailand sex trade. I’m not sure I can make any sense of it but I’ll do my best.

Out of respect for privacy I didn't take pics of any of the workers..

Out of respect for privacy I didn’t take pics of any of the workers..

Although prostitution in Thailand is illegal it is extremely wide spread in every touristic area. I’m not sure if this is only because the “high” season hasn’t started yet but right now the supply of sex workers seems to be much larger than the demand. This creates a very strange atmosphere in the prostitution areas (which include just about every club and pub or sidewalk outside a big hotel and many massage places with “extra” menus). Many prostitutes actually harass men that pass by them, grabbing at them and pinching them. My male friends reported that they are afraid to look around at a night club because the moment their eyes cross a sex worker’s she will immediately leech on to them thinking that they are interested. Unfortunately many women can relate to this feeling when going dancing anywhere else in the world.

I was wondering how I would be treated as a female walking down one of the main prostitution streets in Bangkok. In Amsterdam’s red light district I was constantly harassed by drunken tourists who had completely lost it after seeing some naked women standing in the windows.  In Bangkok I felt completely safe. I was an over-privileged white women, no one even looked at me. Some Canadians who were talking to my guy friends about a “ping pong show” seemed slightly embarrassed by my presence.

We walked into many of the “go go” bars. Outside the bars women in some type of half-clad uniform were trying to beckon people to come in. Inside, those same women were standing on a stage with poles, but they weren’t pole dancing. They were moving their hips mechanically with zero enthusiasm and utter boredom. There were no men inside the club. The bartenders and managers were all older women. I would like to believe that the women are really managing the business but that would probably be naïve. The ‘system’ at the bar is paying for a “lady’s drink” which goes to the bar and then negotiating with the lady.

We also ventured into a “lady boy” club. “Lady Boys” or Kathoey in Thai are transsexuals, some of who have undergone sex change operations. Kathoey are much more visible in Thailand and socially accepted, many of them work at shops and restaurants yet still suffer from discrimination legally and socially. The “Lady Boy” club was completely different. The moment we entered 20 workers jumped at us and sat all around us making a crazy amount of noise. When they realized we weren’t going to buy any “Lady drinks” they disappeared and one of them even tried to shoo us away. The ladies on the stage were dancing much more enthusiastically and constantly checking how they looked in the mirrors around the club, fixing their clothing and hair which was much fancier than the women in the other clubs. Some of them were utterly gorgeous and it seemed to me they were enjoying their bodies which they had worked very hard to get.

The most distressing part for me was seeing very young women. It’s true that it is very hard to tell with Asians but I’m pretty sure at least some of the workers were underage. I guess the interesting upside for me was seeing representations of all the various body types, fat, thin, old, tall or short. The Hollywood “one women to fit them all” hasn’t yet taken hold and since this is a market governed by supply and demand I guess this means that when men are free to choose what they want they don’t all want the same thing.

In general I’m not against the sex trade. I would rather strengthen sex workers, care for their health and erase the “stigma” society sticks to them than drive them to the underground where pimps rule. I obviously don’t know enough to make any real judgment about the Thai sex trade but the power dynamics and the freedom sex workers seemed to have (negotiating their own price and saying no to customers they don’t want) gave me some semblance of hope. Yet the bottom line remains, mixing so much sex and money leaves room for so little sexy.

 

 

 

A Skeptic Needle?

Ten minutes before I left for my first ever Acupuncture treatment, the Richard Dawkins Foundation for Reason and Science published an article titled “why acupuncture is giving sceptics the needle”. If I had any inclination to believe in god or fate or whatever I’d say it was a sign telling me not to go. Luckily I don’t so I can bring you this tale. Read on…

I might not believe in God or even Chi for that matter but I do believe in the well documented Placebo effect. As I’m suffering from a mild L4/L5 pinched nerve, the cause of which I’m not sure I want to know, I thought why not try it. Even the article the Dawkings piece was based on said some research indicated Acupuncture could help in lower back pain. Besides I love Dr Mae-Wan Ho’s theory about how quantum coherence might allow our cells to communicate at a much lower level and she muses about acupuncture being able to affect that network.

I freaked out a seeing this still on the table with all the needles in...

I freaked out a little, seeing this while still on the table with all the needles in…

After I explained to the head of the clinic my symptoms she took a look at my tongue. She asked me to lay down while she and her assistant preceded to examine me by pressing at certain points, moving my legs around and stretching me here and there. I think it took a long stressful 10 minutes. I felt I was in some test waiting to hear the important results. Finally she said my spine was healthy and my energy levels were good. Which I’m hoping means my nerve pinch isn’t caused by a slipped disk.

From there I went with the assistant who started out with the best shiatsu style massage applying very strong and focused pressure. Then she swabbed my back with alcohol and my stress levels jumped up. I tried to stay calm while she inserted the first needle. It felt somewhat between a pinch and a static electric shock. Not too painful but still an ‘ouch’ moment. She went on slowly inserting more needles each of which felt different. Within a few seconds of the needles’ insertion the pain subdued and some weren’t felt at all.

Then she said I will feel a “tok tok tok”. Just as I began saying I don’t feel anything I yelped out as fast week electric shocks began pulsing through my lower back. That’s when things got really strange. I started feeling as if I was being stung by needles in placed the acupuncturist wasn’t even touching me, the thigh I was lying on, the back of my hamstring and the fingers of leg, all of which on the left side which is being effected by the nerve pinch. As the Acupuncturist’s English wasn’t the best it was hard to explain to her but when I did she went on to place needles in those area’s that I mentioned that she could reach and massaged the rest.

I was quite surprised at how dynamic and changeable the feelings were. Each point was sending out completely different signals every few seconds. At times the pulsing was almost unbearable, a moment later it was almost unfelt, then I felt pleasurable pressure on my lower back and suddenly my right shoulder felt as if it were pricked. I was being my regular animated self, giggling and screeching, when a woman that was getting a massage a few meters from me, said through a cloth certain that separated us, “next time I want to have what she’s having”, after which I struck up a strange little conversation with her trying to explain how strange it all felt.

Before the needles were removed I asked the acupuncturist if she could take a picture. I think she thought I was insane but still took the photo J

Then she asked me to turn on my back and started stretching me in a thai style massage.

I felt very strange getting up but could still feel my nerve pinch. As the whole treatment had cost me just $7 I wanted to tip the woman but she wouldn’t let me.

After effects:

I kept on needing to pee for the next two hours. Then after a nap I woke up my lower back feeling very stiff, as if it had a hard workout, but I couldn’t recreate the nerve pinch feeling that happens only when I arch my back. I kept wondering if my subconsciousness wasn’t allowing me to arch as far as I usually do but I really did my best to contort every which way. The lower back pain was there but the shooting pain down my buttock was gone. Latter I went to my regular kung fu class and at some point managed to recreate that nerve pinch feeling but it was still much harder to reach and the pain was much weaker.

The next day I woke up and the nerve pinch is pretty much back to usual, but the whole experience was strange enough so I’m willing to recreate the experiment on Sunday…I’ll see how it goes.

Sacrificing Coca Cola

I had hoped that communism had erased the stronghold of religion in Vietnam. I was wrong. Although like everything else I’ve encountered in this country, things are stranger than I expected.

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Pagoda

Almost all the population is Buddhist, they believe in a form of ancestral worship, the afterlife and karma. Even though many of the younger generation don’t have a strong belief they still consider this part of their culture. The Vietnamese follow a lunar calendar and go to pray at one of the many Pagoda style temples that decorate the city at the beginning and middle of every month. That’s where things get strange.

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Yep those are coca cola cans!

From my time in Japan I expected the entrance of the temple to be filled with small stalls selling stuff. Bringing offerings to the temple is also quite typical. What I didn’t expect is the type of offerings. A pyramid of coca cola cans set at the top of each altar along with a similar pyramid of beer cans made me gawk in shock. Although I guess there is some sense to it, if this is what you like in this life you might miss it in the afterlife.

How about buying some fake cash?

How about buying some fake cash?

People left big trays filled with offering that included fruit, Oreo’s, drinks and loads of cash.  Some of the amounts of cash looked to be awfully big until I noticed you could actually buy fake cash outside of the temple to put in your offering! Seems Judaism isn’t the only religion with a long cheat sheet.

religion1I was wandering what happens to all the food but it turns out people just leave the offerings in the temple for a few minutes, moving them from room to room so they can be blessed by the different gods and ancestors. Later they take their plates back and the food and money are considered blessed.

There were trays to leave donations for the temple and also monks taking donations and in return for some type of food that has been in the temple for a long time so it’s “super blessed”

I asked if people weren’t afraid their offerings would be stolen, but the notion itself seemed outrageous as steeling from ghosts will mess up your Karma for life.

Culture Shock!

My first week in Hanoi was filled with so many ups and downs, ins and outs it’s hard to put it all in words. That’s doesn’t mean I won’t try. Read on…

Typical street

Typical street

First 48 hours

It's so hot even the dog can't be bothered to move

It’s so hot even the dog can’t be bothered to move

I knew it would be hot and humid but knowing is one thing and feeling is another! The crowds, the constant movement, the noises of chickens and motorbikes everywhere put me in a state of shock. The first 48 hours in a new country are always the hardest so I reminded myself to observe and put my critical thinking on hold.

My first morning I awoke at 07:00, government speakers were playing loud music in the street. After the music there was a long speech of some sort and then some more music. These public announcement by the government start each day here. How weird is that? Although I guess it means you don’t need an alarm clock.

Buses and chickens that will probably be eaten by the end of the day.

Buses and chickens that will probably be eaten by the end of the day.

I began my exploration and discovered that there is a very different balance between the public and private sphere than i’m used to. Children play in the alleyways and all house doors are open allowing me to peek inside and see them going about their business. Most of them are sitting on the floor busy with making food or sawing or some other activity, a lot of them with a big flat screen in their living room. Sometimes I’m not sure if it’s a house or some sort of business, probably both. And all motorbikes are parked inside!

My living room, not my motobike.

My living room, not my motobike.

It seems everyone in Hanoi is busy selling something, anything! Women balance huge baskets on their shoulders or push huge carts with anything from bottled water to vegetables or clothing. Everywhere there are small stalls on the sidewalk selling food or services, even barbers.

Different style of ATM's for all the buying?

Different style of ATM’s for all the buying?

Even wheelchairs are used as a sales car.

Even wheelchairs are used as a sales cart.

Almost everything seems to be manufactured and sold locally with very little western influence. After feeling very embarrassed when three women in a local store were running around me I managed to find one of the only ‘supermarkets’ in the city, where I could quietly walk around with a cart and even a little air-conditioning. It was still quite messy compared to anything you find in the west and was nearly empty. I’ve made a resolution to try and buy from the markets and locals, we’ll see if I stick to it.

Food fields 100 meters from the markets and houses.

Food fields 100 meters from the markets and houses.

 

It was a nice surprise to discover there’s no McDonalds, no Pizza Hut and no Starbucks. I have seen one KFC which was empty. It wasn’t as much fun to discover none of the local places have air conditioning. The truth is I don’t see how any of these chains have a chance here as the Vietnamese seem to have invented fast food. At each corner cheap fast local dishes are sold. Another delightful surprise was how un-spicy the dishes are. Each table does have these red malicious looking sauces and cut up chilly you can add to your plate but I don’t have the nerve to even try.

Hot breakfest

Hot breakfast

Despite the heat Vietnamese start the morning with a boiling chicken noodle soup called pho for breakfast. Maybe if you’re hot inside you can trick your brain into thinking it’s not so hot outside?

 

 

Clubbing

Party time!

Party time!

On Friday night I joined my flat mate to an opening of a new club. I was surprised to discover great electronic music and a multicultural environment that can give Berlin a fight. The place itself had an edgy atmosphere, being in a converted old office building that wouldn’t pass any inspection. Then suddenly the music turned to strange wedding type music making everyone run away from the dance floor. My flat mate thinks it’s a ploy to get people to buy more drinks as dancing people don’t drink.

The simple life?

While I’m finding some things very complicated, like crossing the road (although I’m getting better at that), or dealing with the bills and money, (my slight dyslexia seems unable to cope with the amount of zeroes 500, 5000, 50000, 50000?) and communicating (even when I try saying I don’t understand in Vietnamese I’m probably saying it wrong) other things are so simple. I mean, there are no coins for one! And when I needed a sim card all I had to do was go into a store and pay $4 for a prepaid and put it in my phone. No filling endless forms and registering online to activate it like Australia. I even have 3G! What exactly does this cell phone package include I have no idea, but for $4 you can’t really go wrong. Another example of this paradox between simplicity and complexity happened when I itched a stupid mosquito bite. A dangerous infection got into my blood system and my whole hand started to swell. A quick visit to a friend of my flat mate who’s a doctor and then a visit to one of the many pharmacies where I bought antibiotics without any need for a prescription. I don’t want to think how complicated that would be in Australia.

Try crossing this road!

Try crossing this road!

Getting around is another example, navigating the small alleyways is very confusing along with walking amongst the thousands of motorbikes. Everyone keeps on telling me I should get a motorbike and it seems that every family has one! I’ve seen families of four ride on one motorbike, none of them with helmets (although by law they supposed to) while the driver texts on the phone! My mom will be happy to know there’s no chance of me joining the biker club. (Although I’ve been on my kong fu teacher’s bike, hoping his lightning fast instincts will keep us alive). The truth is I don’t see the need for them as, amazingly, google transit works here showing me what buses to use. And although there is no schedule, so far I have found the bus system surprisingly ok. They are old but have a sort of air conditioner and I never had to wait more than ten minutes. For 25 cents that’s not too bad. There is a guy who sells tickets on each bus. One of them actually pocketed my money and didn’t give me a ticket. When I discovered I was on the wrong direction of the bus an English speaking local wanted to give me her ticket but the ticket guy objected and I said it was fine. No need to get her in trouble for a quarter.
So, despite the hardships, the foreignness and the fact that going outdoors is still a mission for me (especially since two crazy monsoon rains have come out of nowhere in the past two days) I am uncharacteristically optimistic and starting to get the rhythm of this city.

More to come…

Yes Or Yes? … No!

My current host in Australia had an extra ticket for an internet marketing seminar and invited me to join him. I presumed it would be some sort of scam/pyramid scheme but as I’ve never been to one of these events it qualified as an anthropological experience. It did not disappoint!

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Seriously photoshoped pic of the lecturer


Around 100 people gathered at the conference room of some local hotel, most of them were around 60+ years old, obviously not the most internet savvy.  The lecturer spent the first hour saying ‘I’ more times than I could count. He recounted his life story filled with small failures, allowing people to relate to him and large successes, flashing the immense amount of money he’s made, causing them to look up to him. If you, like me, are wondering why such a successful entrepreneur would spend his time in these small seminars? Well, if you choose to believe him, he only teaches 30 days a year because he wants to give back to the community.

His rhetoric’s was straight out of a parody on self-help lectures, or maybe evangelist ceremonies. Forcing the audience to complete his sentences, making them move for him and repeating over and over: “Yes or Yes?” leaving no room for disagreement while they all chanted after him “Yes”. His self-contradictions were just as funny saying things like: “My book has everything in it and we’ll go through most of it today and so much more than what is in the book.”

Perhaps trying to avoid potential lawsuits, he gave a disclaimer saying that there was no guarantee for success, it was up to us. He concluded this part with a long story I don’t really remember but the lesson was “If you want to make money you have to want it more than the air in your lungs!”

The next session was about convincing us that an internet based business is the best and easiest way to make money. In fact the best way to do it was to write an e-book on some niche topic and sell it (which is actually sort of what I’m trying to do with Young Hero Tales minus the selling part). There was actually some info here, mostly how to outsource and get others to do everything for you from writing content to building your web site to marketing. There was some general good advice about making your customers feel unique and how to market an idea. He also mentioned some useful web sites for researching traffic and outsourcing. In-between these recommendations he slipped in some of the websites he actually owns and offered people licenses for marketing his products. All they had to do was build a web site, which could be done using his tools and hosted by a company he is vested in. A ‘one stop shop’, in his words, a Pyramid scheme, in my opinion.

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15 minutes until the discount runs out! can you see how i’m running? out of the door!

I asked him what he thought about the donation model as my generation does not pay for content. He turned the question to me “How do you do that?”
Based on success stories like Amanda Palmer I told him “By connecting to your customers, getting them to like you and creating good content. If they want you to keep on creating they will support you”. He liked the part about connecting to your customers but was obviously disgusted by asking for donations. He even hinted that I must have a self-esteem problem if I don’t want to charge people. “If you want to succeed you have to change your model or change the market you are targeting because this is not how the world works!” he said. To which I replied “Or change the world”, which actually left him at a loss of words for about a second and a half. I guess I don’t want to make money as much as I want the air in my lungs and the truth is I don’t want to live in that type of world, I seriously hope I’m not alone in this.

Finally, before lunch break, came the pressure to register to his mentoring program. He used the same methods he recommended to us moments earlier, trying to make us feel special just by coming to his lecture. He gave a special offer for just 15 minutes saying that his experience shows that ‘those that can make fast decisions’ are the ones that succeed. He even shoved in some fear tactics by saying “What is your plan if you don’t come to this program?” My bet is he paid the first guy that came up to register and maybe even the second. Unfortunately there were more than just two people waiting to register when I left.

 

 

 

 

Permaculture 101

I set out to spend between two to three weeks on a permaculture farm in sunshine coast to discover whether permaculture was a hippy thing or if there was some real science behind it. Between the ticks, mosquitos, rain, cold and hard work I felt that I was on a survivor T.V episode from which I voted myself off after only 11 days. I still came back with some answers… Here’s my story.

 The chickens were supposed to be my 'tractor' not the other way around!


The chickens were supposed to be my ‘tractor’ not the other way around!

Permaculture is supposed to be a unique way of doing agriculture by linking different systems together (animal, plant, energy, water, building…) in order to create a sustainable mega system which conserves energy, manpower and the earth. So why did I find myself waking up at 6 a.m. cutting grass for the chickens in the cage behind me? Good question!

Slave labor, collecting gravel for the gray water filter

Slave labor, collecting gravel for the gray water filter

It turns out this particular farm’s actual income was teaching Permaculture courses. That meant there was a need to display all aspects of permaculture on the farm, composting, animal systems, nursery, garden, food forest etc. Yet, there wasn’t enough manpower or smart design to link these systems together. So there was actually a very high work load for very little produce. The upside of this was that I got to see all of the aspects at play and learn a lot. So how does it work?

 

The Compost Toilet had to be dumped into the compost heap manually.

The Compost Toilet had to be dumped into the compost heap manually.

Maybe to you it seems obvious but I learned that growing things means you need good soil, especially the first few meters of the soil which should contain a lot of humus. Don’t get confused like I did, that doesn’t mean the chickpea paste we eat in Israel, it means organic matter that has broken down into the ground. That’s where the linkage with animal systems is supposed to come in play. Animal waste is actually good for the ground. It also means there were a million earth worms wriggling around every time I planted something and that we had to deal with, literally, a lot of shit! Animals are also supposed to help with weeding and eating bad slugs that eat your food.  Organic matter can also come from other plants so in permaculture some plants are used as ‘support plants’, you chop off material from and drop on the ground as mulch. These plants can also be used as food for the animals linking the system back into itself. Unfortunately, this was not really done on the farm, and I was working much harder to feed the animals then they were working to feed me.

Just some of the strange insects around the farm

Just some of the strange insects around the farm

Another system that is closely linked is the water system. For instance by digging out water drainage swells one can preserve rain water and force it to go into the ground slowly. This seemed a little redundant on the farm when I was there as it was constantly raining! I have to say I felt cheated by the name “Sun Shine” coast.

Poisonous?

Poisonous?

Despite the fact that the farm was far from producing all its food, the managers were almost obsessed with eating ‘healthy’. So for the first time in., well forever, I went for more than a week with no processed food. No Tim Tams, no peanut butter, no chocolate bars, no coca cola, no granola bars, no corn flakes! The first few days I was really craving chocolate, but that did pass and I noticed one tea spoon of organic whatever suger was more than enough in my coffee. In my first supermarket visit since I managed to resist the temptation to buy a chocolate bar, any bets how long this will last?

Harvesting human urine had never been so amusing

Harvesting human urine has never been so amusing

Anyway, I was lucky enough to have stayed there with 3 other woofers (volunteers who get fed for their work), who made my time on the farm a little less harsh and more amusing. And from the Italian guy’s stories, it could be much worse, we could be in Africa.

Complexity of the farm!

Complexity of the farm!

We spent our nights watching permaculture videos in a converted bus that was filled with mice, spiders, moths and mold. I also managed to go through 100 pages of a basic permaculture book. These obviously don’t make me an expert but here are my conclusions. Permaculture can never be a replacement for modern agriculture unless we all go back to growing our own food (which I personally don’t see a point in). The complexity of the system means it has to be constantly supervised and maintained, and although smart design leads to robust systems, harvesting the food for actual use in this system is complicated and time consuming because the place actually turns into a forest! You have to scavenge and gather it (which as yet no machine is able to do).

Despite that, I am convinced that Permaculture is not a ‘hippy’ thing. In fact, I’d say hippies are giving it a bad name. There are villages in Africa and India where permaculture has saved people from growing hungry. It has nurtured soil destroyed by modern agriculture (that doesn’t put nutrients back into the ground), thus enabling them to grow their own food. It could also come in handy for families or small communities wishing to get some good fruits and vegetables and some eggs without too much effort. Finally, modern agriculture could learn a thing or two (or three) from permaculture about preserving soil and water. So that’s about it, the good, the bad and the ugly!

 

 

 

Hippy Tales

Traveling up the east coast in Australia brought me to some close encounters with the species that is commonly known as a ‘hippy’ – read on…

 

The Police station in Nimbin appeared closed

The Police station in Nimbin appeared closed

Nimbin, a real (dirty) hippy town where marijuana flows like water and the clouds are green. Not that the stuff is legal but the inhabitants don’t mind and actually use it as a tourist attraction.

This is where hippies retire and grow old after traveling from one festival to the other. In fact, this town sort of started out as a festival. Back in 1973 it was a town like any other until some people organized a week long hippy festival. The festival was so successful that the hippies just stayed in town and sort of took over. They have a weekly newspaper dedicated to weed, numerous shops selling all the paraphernalia, and people offering Hydro on the street.

As always, the fact that everyone is into something, makes me do the exact opposite, so I didn’t even check the prices. I can pass on the recommendation that, just in case you plan a visit, don’t buy from the street venders, instead go into one of the shops and ask around.

I couldn’t smell weed on the streets but I could definitely see its effects, like red eyed zombie people slowly walking down the street almost getting run over. Besides that, there seems to be a strange connection to rainbow colors and second hand sales which dominate the tiny, one street, town. There are also organic food stores, cafes and some galleries, but if anyone’s interested in making some cash I’d recommend opening a munchies food place which is painfully missing.

need I say more?

need I say more?

 

 

Yep chickens roam free in the street

Yep chickens roam free in the street

 

How many rainbow color objects can you find in the pic?

How many rainbow color objects can you find in the pic?

 

 

 

 

 

 

In comparison to Nimbin, Byron Bay, which is an hour’s drive away, is where the hippies that want to make money come to. The constant flow of tourist in this pretty surfer town is a capitalistic hippie’s dream comes true. Restaurants, bars, clothes stores and surfing gear, along with backpackers on every corner, all overly priced with mediocre quality. Even the parking costs $3 an hour! The Art Factory backpackers I’m staying in is a micro-cosmos of the town. It’s beautiful, well designed but there are no cups in the kitchen and you have to give a deposit if you want to use a pot!

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Byron Bay beach

The Walking not Dead

Walking 20 km a day gives one a lot of time. The first day I mostly talked to others but the next day I took upon myself the role of scout, walking in front of everyone with a bright yellow vest, just in case any car came by. (Yes this is still Australia with the ‘safety first’- over protective mentality I find everywhere).

the path that never ends

the path that never ends

Anyway, it gave me a lot of time to think. And with all the talk about ancestral grounds I began thinking of my ancestors, who as the tale goes, walked through a different desert for 40 years after escaping slavery in Egypt.
Anyone who knows a little geography has to ask why the hell did it take them 40 years to cross a small desert? Well the biblical story tells us that it is a punishment. Most of the Israeli people still had the slave mentality they left Egypt with and did not believe they could conquer the land. That is why they wandered the desert for 40 years waiting for the older generation to die.

Even the flies couldn't stop me from getting all philosophical

Even the flies couldn’t stop me from getting all philosophical

I started thinking what would have happened if the Israeli people escaping the holocaust would have waited 40 years for the post trauma to fade? Of cause it wasn’t much of an option to the millions of refugees but ‘what if?’
I began thinking of the ‘jewish’ people as a collective ‘meme’ with it’s own propagating agenda.

Many people suffering from abuse as children grow up to recreate these patterns. Abused become abusers or else ever remain with a ‘victim’ mentality staying in abusive situations because that is all that they know. If people act that way, why not entire countries?

No one can doubt the suffering that the aboriginal people have gone through. Yet, the people I met (by no means a representative sample), were preaching a philosophy of ‘we are all one people’. They are teaching their children that they are citizens of the world with equal rights, while still being very adamant on preserving their heritage and knowledge. I was happy to discover that there were rangers that were accepted to the group even if they weren’t from aboriginal descent.

The police came to visit on our walk. warning us of the upcoming storm.

The police came to visit on our walk. warning us of the upcoming storm.

 

 

Why the hell can’t Israel do the same? Is there any chance the Israeli nation can escape the ‘battered person’ syndrome I believe it is suffering from? And if so would there even be an Israel? Well, just because I’m asking questions doesn’t mean have answers. But if you do, let me know what you think.

Hunter Gatherer

Zach is driving the car down a dirt road at 60 kmh beside him Shaun is holding the hunting rifle, both of them belong to the Walkatjurra Rangers, an organisations  dedicated to preserving nature along with the ancient aboriginal knowledge and culture. I’m sitting in the back between Rosaline an aboriginal elder and Bon Bon a young female ranger. All four are looking out of the windows utterly focused. “Stop!” Rosaline shouts and the car halts in a jerk. We all run out to check out the iguana tracks Rosaline somehow managed to see as we zoomed by. The hunt is on!

Iguana tracks

Iguana tracks

We didn’t catch anything that day but the passion for hunting and the love of meat is apparent at every dinner. The camp food is mostly vegetarian which the rangers are keen to supplement with meat. I asked Kato, a Wongatha elder, who explained that the traditional diet of aboriginals was indeed high in protein, but it was actually mostly vegetarian coming from Nuts that grow on local trees. The hunting and meat are for the glory!

Hunting is not the only way to get meat, the next day I try to help Rosaline and Bon Bon collect Witchetty grubs from roots of bushes. It’s hard work, digging at the base of the correct bushes and taking the worms out of the roots using a stick, but I have to say that the cooked grub is a delicacy. The crunchy outside with the fat meaty inside remind me a little of shrimps cooked in butter.

Gathering Grubs!

Gathering Grubs!

Surviving outdoors isn’t only about meat. Kato demonstrated how to find clean water and explained about medicinal herbs and just as important poisonous plants.

Kato looking for clean water.

Kato looking for clean water.

It only looks like a watermelon, don't eat!

It only looks like a watermelon, don’t eat!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It’s wasn’t only the Ranger’s survival skills that I was fascinated by; their belief system based on what they call ‘dream time’ was a great mystery to me. From what I gathered dream time is not only creation stories of the land (that used to help people navigate as the whole village used to sing the songs every morning). It is much more; it is the disconnectedness of the whole of creation, a little like chi in eastern philosophy. In the ‘dream time’ characters had animal aspects as well as a landscape, a snake could be a person could be a chain of mountains.

Ceremony in part of the land that has "dream time tales" and historical significance to the aboriginals. It was saved from the mining companies  due to the local's struggle.

Aboriginal ceremony in part of the land that has “dream time tales” and historical significance to the aboriginals. It was saved from the mining companies due to the local’s struggle.

Even today many of the aboriginals have totem animals that are chosen for them at birth as well as places that represent them. There is also an aspect of reincarnation in the aboriginal religion. How does that coexist with their love of hunting? Well I asked that and got a very interesting answer from Zach. An aboriginal who has a totem animal will usually not eat his animal but there’s more than that, he also has the responsibility to take care of his animal along with the power to restrict its hunting if the population of the animal is shrinking.

A left deep deep deep hole the mining company left after collecting samples.

A  deep deep deep hole the mining company left after collecting samples.

Unlike many of those on the walk, I don’t think that the fact that someone’s ancestors happened to be on some land before (or after) mine has any relevancy to who the land ‘belongs’ to, but the idea that man and nature should live in symbiosis as was practiced by the aboriginals is something we should all adopt. This is why the thought of mining the land without any consideration of sustainability and long term implication is so vile to many aboriginals. Although some have settled with the mining companies, many because of the fatalistic belief that the government will back the mining company anyway so it’s better to make some cash while they can.

The smoothest stone i ever touched. used to be used by aboriginal women to grind seed on. For some reason (guess) It is not recognized by Australian authority to have archaeological value.

The smoothest stone I ever touched. used to be used by aboriginal women to grind seed on. For some reason (guess) It is not recognized by Australian authority to have archaeological value.

There are many aspects of aboriginal culture that still remain a mystery to me, some of which I think I would totally be against. The segregation of men and women is one of these. I tried digging but got very few answers. There are separate areas in the land that are for “men only” or “women only” where secret ceremonies were held, whether this is still practiced today is hard to tell. It also turns out that a didgeridoo, the traditional musical instrument of some tribes (not the tribes I met), are forbidden for women. I heard many different reasons from “it’s harmful for the womb” to “it’s considered the extension of a male sex organ”, none of which I would ever accept.
I also tried to understand more about the way the Ranger’s organisation is managed. It is based on the traditional aboriginal tribal organisation which includes elders and community members each having some type of say. Can’t really say that I got it. On one hand it seemed the power was dispersed wonderfully but on the other I understood that there are complex hierarchies based on tribes and lineage. Well, it’s always great to learn that you have more to learn.

Coming up next: The walking not dead

Tribal Life

Before we started on the walk we had two days to get used to camp life and all it entails. Setting up camp, gathering wood, building fires, cooking, cleaning, digging toilets (and using them). Browse through the pictures to get all the info.

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Despite the many jobs and hardship of life in the desert the group remained amazingly conflict free. This has a lot to do with the way it was managed through the circle! All the info and decisions are made around this circle which surrounds the central camp fire. The circle usually meets twice a day, after breakfast and before dinner. There were ‘leaders’ in the circle but their only position was to facilitate it. All people had equal say. Most times people’s suggestions were agreed by everyone and it was quite easy to find common ground but there was a very strong feeling of avoiding conflict to the point of hypocrisy which made me think how long this system could hold up before something boils to the surface.

The Circle

The Circle

As for the work, at the beginning of the week a roster sheet was passed out with all the tasks that needed to be done and people were asked to fill their names in. As I wanted to learn as much as possible I signed up for a different task each day. One of the tricks I noticed, was to make sure there are lots of helping hands for each task, that way even a seemingly hard task like cleaning the toilet only takes a few minutes, as every person has to do only one small part of it. It probably isn’t the most efficient way but it worked. In fact, one only had to work on average around three hours a day (including packing and unpacking your own tent) to make sure the camp runs smoothly. It did help to have some real workaholics that kept on going and going.
The extra time we had was used for playing music, dancing, creating art, getting to know each other and learning more about uranium mining, which the entire second day was dedicated to.

The Fukushima nuclear reactor meltdown

Senator member, Scott Ludlam, from the greens flew in with some media and other activists. We heard about higher cancer rates in rural communities near Uranium mining sites, about nuclear reactor accidents like Fukushima, radioactive waste disposal and about the economic inefficiency of Uranium mining and Nuclear Power. In contrast to their ‘hippy’ looks and attitude the organizers surprised me with a deep understanding about economy and have very concrete plans on how to prevent the Uranium mine from being built by using economic influences. They are sending out reports to prospective investors showing that the mine is likely to lose money as well as buying up shares in the company which allows them to influence it from within! Not all of the arguments convinced me (accidents are not a logical step to stop progress, should we stop driving because of car accidents?) But two facts made up my mind against the Nuclear Power industry, if Uranium consumption is kept up at its current rate it is going to be depleted in the next 50+ years. That fact, in combination with the millions of tons of Nuclear waste created, which will last for more than 10,000 years (some more than a million years) is enough to make me want to stop this industry and move to real sustainable energy.

Another interesting aspect of camp life was the children. Families came on this walk too and there were around 15 children aged 2-13 amongst us. The children were integrated as much as possible in all aspects of camp life and kids as young as 4 were helping around camp. They even had a circle of their own! I have worked with a lot of children and these were extraordinary, curious, friendly, knowledgeable and with so much experience for such a young age. I realized there is something more natural and perhaps even easier for the parents to raise children in this type of community environment. The parents were never far off yet a lot of the time the kids were playing or being taught by someone else in this big ‘family’. Perhaps this is what tribal life used to be like. There was only one thing I was disappointed about, seeing traditional gender roles set in at such an early age, as most the girls helped in the kitchen while the boys went to collect and chop wood.

Coming up next – Hunter Gatherer – What I learnt from the Aboriginal Rangers.