Supply and Demand

On a short stopover in Bangkok I’ve decided it’s time to write about my encounters with the Thailand sex trade. I’m not sure I can make any sense of it but I’ll do my best.

Out of respect for privacy I didn't take pics of any of the workers..

Out of respect for privacy I didn’t take pics of any of the workers..

Although prostitution in Thailand is illegal it is extremely wide spread in every touristic area. I’m not sure if this is only because the “high” season hasn’t started yet but right now the supply of sex workers seems to be much larger than the demand. This creates a very strange atmosphere in the prostitution areas (which include just about every club and pub or sidewalk outside a big hotel and many massage places with “extra” menus). Many prostitutes actually harass men that pass by them, grabbing at them and pinching them. My male friends reported that they are afraid to look around at a night club because the moment their eyes cross a sex worker’s she will immediately leech on to them thinking that they are interested. Unfortunately many women can relate to this feeling when going dancing anywhere else in the world.

I was wondering how I would be treated as a female walking down one of the main prostitution streets in Bangkok. In Amsterdam’s red light district I was constantly harassed by drunken tourists who had completely lost it after seeing some naked women standing in the windows.  In Bangkok I felt completely safe. I was an over-privileged white women, no one even looked at me. Some Canadians who were talking to my guy friends about a “ping pong show” seemed slightly embarrassed by my presence.

We walked into many of the “go go” bars. Outside the bars women in some type of half-clad uniform were trying to beckon people to come in. Inside, those same women were standing on a stage with poles, but they weren’t pole dancing. They were moving their hips mechanically with zero enthusiasm and utter boredom. There were no men inside the club. The bartenders and managers were all older women. I would like to believe that the women are really managing the business but that would probably be naïve. The ‘system’ at the bar is paying for a “lady’s drink” which goes to the bar and then negotiating with the lady.

We also ventured into a “lady boy” club. “Lady Boys” or Kathoey in Thai are transsexuals, some of who have undergone sex change operations. Kathoey are much more visible in Thailand and socially accepted, many of them work at shops and restaurants yet still suffer from discrimination legally and socially. The “Lady Boy” club was completely different. The moment we entered 20 workers jumped at us and sat all around us making a crazy amount of noise. When they realized we weren’t going to buy any “Lady drinks” they disappeared and one of them even tried to shoo us away. The ladies on the stage were dancing much more enthusiastically and constantly checking how they looked in the mirrors around the club, fixing their clothing and hair which was much fancier than the women in the other clubs. Some of them were utterly gorgeous and it seemed to me they were enjoying their bodies which they had worked very hard to get.

The most distressing part for me was seeing very young women. It’s true that it is very hard to tell with Asians but I’m pretty sure at least some of the workers were underage. I guess the interesting upside for me was seeing representations of all the various body types, fat, thin, old, tall or short. The Hollywood “one women to fit them all” hasn’t yet taken hold and since this is a market governed by supply and demand I guess this means that when men are free to choose what they want they don’t all want the same thing.

In general I’m not against the sex trade. I would rather strengthen sex workers, care for their health and erase the “stigma” society sticks to them than drive them to the underground where pimps rule. I obviously don’t know enough to make any real judgment about the Thai sex trade but the power dynamics and the freedom sex workers seemed to have (negotiating their own price and saying no to customers they don’t want) gave me some semblance of hope. Yet the bottom line remains, mixing so much sex and money leaves room for so little sexy.

 

 

 

Paradise Lost

I know I’ve disappeared a little in the last few days. I’ve made it out to Tonsai, a remote beach in Thiland, dominated by climbers. It’s where the ghost of Bob Marley has come to live and smells of ganja mixed with tiger balm, sweat and magnesium. Such beautiful people on a beautiful beach that I find myself contemplating ‘what I have done to deserve this?’

Beautiful beach beautiful people

Beautiful beach beautiful people

The uniqueness of Tonsai starts with the remoteness. It’s not an island but there is no way to get to it over land. Getting to the “modern” Reily beach is done by treking through the jungle or crossing over slippery stones at low tide. This means there is no law enforcement around, and “sex, drugs and Bob Marley” rule the island. But that’s only the beginning of the story, there are many such remote beautiful places that have been taken over by big resorts and hotels. Tonsai is different. Locals own all the small bungalows and restaurants. The reason for that seems to be due to Tonsai’s one major imperfection. Its beach doesn’t have enough sand. At low tide the water front moves far out and a stone field takes over making it almost impossible to get into the ocean while at high tide the water covers the entire beach and you have to wade through the waves to go from one bar to the other.

Climbing with monkeys!

Climbing with monkeys!

This is not the only imperfection that keeps the main stream crowd away. There is no electricity in Tonsai during the day and no hot water anywhere on the beach. When it rains the paths become one big mudslide, evil mosquitoes are always buzzing around and sometimes you literally do get ants in your pants!!!

 

Pink Floyd reggae style with a violin... Nuff said!

Pink Floyd reggae style with a violin… Nuff said!

Most everyone that comes to Tonsai comes to climb the beautiful cliffs. Even those that didn’t come for that get sucked into the sport/art. Climbers don’t usually just pass through, they come for longer periods, which allows for a real comradery to develop between climbers from all over the world. I’ve already written about the sharing and support I’ve found in climbing culture and Tonsai is no different, only more international and the night life is more active. With fire shows, drinking, some really good local bands and some terrible open mic nights and obviously the weed (some mushrooms and LSD too).

Locals playing a crazy game  that combines Soccer and Volleyball

Locals playing a crazy game that combines Soccer and Volleyball

There is also a very interesting symbiosis between the locals and the climbers. I’m hoping that it’s not just the money that the climbers bring in that makes the locals who have ‘seen it all’ so laid back and ok with it all.

Anyway, I’ll probably be here for a while more…. It is my version of paradise after all.

 

 

 

Behind The Scenes

When you become part of a place it’s harder to look at it from the outside which is why even though I’ve had loads of experiences in Vietnam I haven’t been writing much. But now, already in Bangkok there are a few things I would like to share.

The Red Flag

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Each newspaper is focused on one issue, sports, economics, world affairs …
The whole world outside of Vietnam is a scary terrible place!

Vietnam still suffers from many remnants of communism. As a white foreigner it was hard to feel them myself but by talking to locals a very restricting picture was painted. Bars and clubs must close by midnight, all the news-papers are strictly censored by the government, students must belong to this “communist youth party” in order to study and if anyone is hosting a foreigner overnight they must pass the foreigner’s passport details to the police.

The police appear to ignore white people but the Vietnamese that come in contact with them will be the ones the police try to get money from.

Here are two examples from my life: A Vietnamese who joined a climbing trip was blamed by local authorities for being the “tour guide” even though he had paid for the trip like all the foreigners and was not the guide! The authorities tried to force him to pay a “tour guide fee” even when the real guide tried explaining the situation – the authorities confiscated the Vietnamese’s identity card!

Very "yellow" news a wife discovers her husband cheating on her makes front page.

Very “yellow” news – a wife discovers her husband cheating on her makes front page.

A foreign friend was staying with a Vietnamese family. The family complied with the law and passed his details to the police who later came knocking on the door demanding the Vietnamese family pay a fee for hosting him.

In both cases the Vietnamese authorities didn’t communicate with the foreigners directly but instead harassed their own citizens.

 

Where America actually won the war

I visited Ho Chi Min (Saigon) for a few days and was amazed with the difference. Everything that I liked about Hanoi was gone. Western brands were everywhere (Starbucks, Pizza Hut, KFC and more), Big supermarkets, Shopping malls; the markets were geared towards tourists with very aggressive selling tactics. Night life was heavily influenced by the prostitution industry and crime levels are much higher. I was navigating with my phone’s GPS when two guys on a motorbike tried to snatch and grab my phone from out of my hand. They didn’t know that they were dealing with climbers’ fingers so I latched on to the phone and instinctively dropped my center of gravity and they just zoomed by empty handed with hateful looks on their face. As my brother pointed out, the west has not only gotten to Ho Chi Minh, it has corrupted it.

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Practicing Wing Chun on a Climbing trip, more or less sums up my time in Vietnam. Photo by Nam, Check out his photo blog! http://cvlom.blogspot.com/

I’d like to take this opportunity to thank the amazing people I met in the Vĩnh Xuân Nguyễn Gia (Nguyen’s Wing Chun) who accepted me into their family!  As well as everyone from Vietclimb bouldering gym.